INVESTIGATION OF PHOTOPROTECTIVE PROPERTIES OF TROXERUTIN, FERULIC ACID, AQUEOUS EXTRACTS OF LEMON BALM (MELISSA OFFICINALIS), AND PEPPERMINT (MENTHA PIPERITA) BY UV SPECTROSCOPY

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Both natural and ingredients created in laboratories are used as photoprotective agents in cosmetic products. This paper presents the results of a study of photoprotective properties of aqueous extracts of lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) and peppermint (Mentha piperita), aqueous solutions of troxerutin and ferulic acid by UV spectroscopy. The work objective was to evaluate photoprotective qualities of these substances, for which such indicators calculated from UV spectra as sun protection factor – SPFin vitro, the critical wavelength – λcrit and the ratio of the areas under the absorption spectrum curve in the ranges 320-400 nm and 290-320 nm – UV-A/UV-B. The stability of the studied objects to the action of UV radiation was also checked. During the work carried out, it was found that the aqueous extracts of lemon balm and peppermint have particular photoprotective properties. At the same time, the extract obtained from lemon balm and purified from ballast substances showed the highest value of SPFin vitro. However, with prolonged UV irradiation simulating sunlight, the absorption properties of plant extracts decrease. Troxerutin absorbs UV rays mainly in the wavelength range of 320-400 nm, is resistant in aqueous solutions to UV radiation, air oxygen, and can be used as a UV-B filter in cosmetic compositions. Ferulic acid absorbs UV radiation mainly in the wavelength range of 280-320 nm, but under the influence of ultraviolet, the absorption properties of this substance change significantly. A change in the nature of the UV spectrum of ferulic acid is also observed under the influence of air oxygen.
Keywords:
lemon balm, peppermint, troxerutin, ferulic acid, ultraviolet radiation, photoprotection, photo protection, UV filters
Larionov E.A.
Candidate of Chemical Sciences (Ph.D.), Kaluga State University named after K.E. Tsiolkovski
Larionova V.M.
Candidate of Chemical Sciences (Ph.D.), Associate Professor, Kaluga State University named after K.E. Tsiolkovski
Kozlova E.M.
Kaluga State University named after K.E. Tsiolkovski
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